Roses That Hold Up in Colorado

Rugosas, Canadian Explorer roses and tough own-root shrub roses come through Colorado winters with little fuss. Hybrid teas, tree roses and most fancy English types are a different story, and many of them sit on garden center shelves every spring. This guide sorts the dependable from the doubtful so you can shop with a name in hand. For the basics of planting and care, start with growing roses in Colorado.

Which roses survive a Colorado winter

What does the USDA zone number tell you about roses?

Colorado runs from 3b to 7b on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. That map rests on a single measurement, the average annual extreme minimum temperature, so a rose rated for your zone has been judged only on how much cold it takes at the worst moment of an average winter. The low end of that range belongs to high mountain towns. Warmer pockets sit on the western slope and along parts of the plains. Check where your own town falls before you trust any plant tag.

Frost timing adds a second layer. At Denver, which sits at 5,280 feet on the plains, NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 Climate Normals put the last spring freeze between May 1 and May 11 and the first fall freeze between September 30 and October 12. Those are probability bands, not fixed dates. Mountain towns run far shorter seasons and can frost in July. A rose that leafs out early and gets caught by a May freeze loses its first flush of growth even if it is perfectly hardy in January.

Zone numbers also leave out what actually kills roses here: dry winter wind, bright sun on bare canes, and warm spells in February that wake a plant just before another hard freeze. A rose that is fully cold-hardy on paper can still lose canes to desiccation.

Which types of roses clear the cold end?

Rugosas are the toughest. They descend from a coastal Asian species, tolerate wind, poor soil and road salt, and shrug off cold that flattens most garden roses. The Explorer series, bred by Canadian programs for prairie winters, comes next. Many Explorers bloom on and off through summer and survive hard winters with canes largely intact. Their relatives, the Parkland roses, follow the same logic.

Modern landscape shrub roses sit in the middle. They usually lose some cane tips but come back vigorously from lower down. Old garden roses vary widely, so judge them one by one.

Hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras need help in the colder zones of that range. In the mildest spots they get by with a mound of soil or mulch over the crown. At the cold end, treat them as a gamble. Expect to lose the top of the plant most years.

Named roses that hold up here

Which hardy shrub roses are the safest buys?

Start with Hansa. This rugosa has wrinkled, deep green leaves, double magenta-purple flowers with a strong clove scent, and big orange-red hips in fall. It tolerates cold, wind and lean soil, and it needs no special winter treatment in most of the state. It also suckers, so give it room.

Therese Bugnet is a hybrid rugosa bred in Alberta by Georges Bugnet. It carries pale pink, fragrant flowers on reddish canes, and it was bred for a climate with winters far harsher than the Front Range sees. It is a sound choice for a mountain yard where hybrid teas never get a second season.

Knock Out is a widely sold landscape rose, and it is a reasonable bet here. It usually comes through Front Range winters, often with some dead cane tips that you remove in spring. Colder sites lose more wood. A mound of mulch over the crown after the ground freezes keeps the plant coming back from the base instead of starting over. It sells own-root, which helps (more on that below).

William Baffin, an Explorer climber, is the pick if you want a trained rose on a fence or arbor and live where winters bite. It carries clusters of deep pink flowers and holds its canes better than most climbers.

Is New Dawn dependable as a climber?

New Dawn is a pale pink, repeat-blooming climber that has been sold for decades and is common on nursery benches. It is also the least hardy of the four names above. In milder parts of the state it blooms heavily on its old canes. In colder spots those canes can freeze back, leaving you with a plant that blooms only on new growth. Where winters are harsh, choose William Baffin instead, or plan to protect New Dawn’s canes.

Hardy roses still face disease pressure, even if the dry climate softens some problems. For what to expect, see Rose Diseases in Colorado: What the Climate Here Actually Brings.

Sold here, but not for this zone

Which roses on the shelf will struggle?

Garden centers buy from national growers, and the same lineup ships to Colorado, Georgia and Oregon. That means a spring display in Fort Collins or Colorado Springs can include roses that were never meant for a state with a 3b to 7b range.

The usual suspects are hybrid teas, the long-stemmed florist-style roses sold under names like Peace and Mister Lincoln. Floribundas and grandifloras share the problem. So do tree roses, sold as a rose grafted on top of a tall trunk. The whole top is the graft, so one bad freeze can kill the named variety and leave only the trunk.

Many David Austin English roses are a half step better but still borderline in the colder zones of the state. Large-flowered climbers like Don Juan can lose canes over winter. Grocery-store potted miniatures, sold for holidays, were forced in a greenhouse and are poor candidates for the open garden.

What happens if you buy one anyway?

You can grow them. Just know the cost. Without protection, tender roses die back to the soil line or to the graft in an average winter, and in a severe one they die outright. The standard fix is to mound soil or mulch over the crown once the ground has frozen, and the full method is in Protecting Roses Through a Colorado Winter. That is chores every fall for a plant that a rugosa would replace with no work at all.

What to check on the label before buying

Three things on the tag tell you more than the photo does: the grade, whether the rose is grafted, and the variety name itself.

Grade applies mainly to bare-root and packaged roses. No. 1 is the top grade, with thick and numerous canes. The grades below it are smaller and slower to establish. A cheap No. 2 may cost less up front but takes a season longer to reach the same size, and a young rose with thin canes has less reserve to survive its first winter.

Own-root versus grafted matters most. A grafted rose is a named variety joined to a stronger rootstock, and you can spot it by the swollen knob, the graft union, near the base. An own-root rose grows from its own roots, with no graft at all. When a hard winter kills a grafted plant to the ground, whatever regrows from the roots is the rootstock. When an own-root plant freezes to the ground, it regrows as the same rose you bought. The colder the site, the more likely that scenario becomes, which is why choosing own-root roses is the best protection for a mountain or high-elevation garden.

Look for the words “own root” on the tag. If the label says nothing, check the base of the plant for the knob. Ask the nursery staff if you can’t tell, and if they don’t know, pick a different plant.

Checking this against your own county

A zone range this wide can’t settle what grows on your street. Elevation, slope, a south-facing wall and wind exposure can shift conditions by a full zone within a mile. Colorado State University Extension runs offices in counties across the state, and their staff know which roses have held up locally and what the typical last spring freeze looks like in your valley. Call or visit your county extension office before you buy, especially for a mountain or western slope yard, where the Denver frost bands above do not apply.

Common questions

Are Knock Out roses reliable in Colorado?

They usually are. Expect some cane tip dieback in an average winter and more in colder areas. Prune out the dead wood in spring and the plant regrows from lower down.

Can I grow a hybrid tea in Colorado?

Yes, with work. Hybrid teas need winter protection in the colder zones of the state and often die back to the soil line anyway. In the coldest mountain towns, rugosas and Explorer roses are the better investment.

Do rugosa roses need winter protection?

Rarely. Hansa and Therese Bugnet handle cold, wind and poor soil well. Their main demand is space, because Hansa spreads by suckers.

Is an own-root rose really better than a grafted one here?

In cold areas, yes. If a freeze kills the top of an own-root rose, it regrows as the same variety. A grafted rose that dies to the ground regrows as its rootstock.