Peace is a hybrid tea rose, a pastel blend of yellow and pink that our source notes call the best-known hybrid tea in the world, and it does not ripen the way a tomato does. There is no days-to-maturity figure and no single harvest. What ripens is the wood, and what you pick is a flower. So the real question is whether a Peace planted where you live has enough season to build and ripen its growth, and what that costs you in care.
What Peace actually is
Start with the figure the title seems to promise: days to maturity counted from transplant. For this rose, none is published. The source behind this page, the NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox entry for Rosa, covers the genus and carries no catalogue count for Peace, and it would be wrong to borrow a tomato-style number to fill the gap. A rose is bought as a plant, not sown for a crop, so the clock that matters is the one running on its new shoots.
The fact that decides most of your care is where it flowers. Peace blooms on new wood. Flowers come from growth made this season, which is why the instruction for it is to cut back hard while it is dormant. The date for that cut depends on your zone, so it lives on the page for your state, not here.
Size is the second thing gardeners ask about. The only documented dimensions are for the whole genus: 1 to 8 feet tall and 1 to 6 feet wide, depending on cultivar. That is a wide enough range to be useless for planning a bed, and Peace’s own measurements are not published here. Check the cultivar page for the per-plant figure before you decide on spacing or a trellis.
Growth rate is medium and maintenance is rated HIGH, again for the genus. Expect a plant that rewards attention and sulks without it. The edible fruit is the hip, which turns from green to red in fall. Petal count runs from 5 (single) to more than 20 (double) across the genus, and a count for Peace is not documented here.
What Peace is good for
The reader who grows a tomato wants a pasta sauce or a sandwich. The reader who grows Peace wants a flower, and the catalogue describes it plainly: a pastel mix of yellow and pink. No flavor note, no scent profile and no petal count for this cultivar appear in the verified material, so any claim about its fragrance would be invented. What is documented is that rose fragrance falls into five groups: old rose, fruity, tea, myrrh and musk. Which one Peace belongs to, this page does not say. Smell one in person before you plant.
For the vase, timing is everything. Cut once the sepals have folded back and the first one or two petals are unfurling. A bud cut tighter than that often never opens, and you end up with a green knob in water.
The hip is the other crop. It is an accessory fruit holding achenes, it is edible, and it turns red in fall. Flavor is not documented here, and there is a trade-off worth knowing: a gardener who keeps cutting spent flowers never lets hips form. You can have a steady supply of blooms or a fall display of fruit, and a single hybrid tea will not do both well.
If you are weighing Peace against other roses, the neighboring pages cover different jobs. Iceberg Rose: When to Plant the Tomatoes That Ripen All at Once sits beside it in this series, and the Rose Varieties hub shows how the main groups differ.
Where it ripens in time, and where it is a gamble
The brief for this page called for city-by-city figures, frost windows measured at named weather stations and crossed with a maturity count. That crossing cannot be done honestly for Peace. There is no days-to-maturity number, and no frost-date table is attached to this page, so naming a city and a date would mean making one up. Those figures are not published here.
What the source does give is hardiness, and it is a genus figure: roses as a group are listed for USDA zones 5a through 11b. That is a very wide band, and it says the plant survives across most of the country, not that every cultivar thrives at both ends. Nothing in the verified material says Peace is impossible anywhere, so this page will not say so.
You can still redo the arithmetic for your own garden, with the unit changed. For a new-wood rose, the sum is the stretch between your last spring frost and your first fall frost, which is the time the plant has to push shoots, flower and then let that wood ripen. Count the weeks, and you have your real season. The longer it is, the more flushes of bloom you can expect. The shorter it is, the more the last shoots of the year are a liability.
That last point is the gamble. Shoots that start growing too late come out soft, and soft growth that will not ripen before frost is the first thing winter takes. Peace is cut back hard anyway, so the loss is partly absorbed, but dieback can travel lower than you would like. In a short-season garden, the practical move is to stop prompting new shoots before the cold arrives, instead of hoping for a late flush.
The two ways a season goes wrong
A long frost-free window is not automatically a good season. A frost table shows one limit and hides others, and tomato growers know both. Fruit set stalls when nights drop below 50F, and pollen goes sterile above roughly 86F, which is why southern growers run a spring crop and an autumn crop. Those are tomato figures. No source on this site documents equivalent cutoffs for Peace, so do not carry them over.
For a rose, the documented limit that a frost table misses is wood that fails to ripen. Dormancy follows day length and cold, not the plant’s calendar, and a rose still pushing soft shoots when the first hard freeze arrives has nothing to protect them. Late warm spells make it worse, because they keep the plant growing past the point where the wood should be firming up.
The second limit is light and care, not heat. Full sun, meaning 6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day, is what the genus needs, and a bed that drops below that gives you a leggy plant with fewer flowers regardless of how long the season runs. With maintenance rated HIGH, a missed month in midsummer costs more than a mild spring ever gains back.
What it resists, and what it does not
The catalogue lists no disease resistance for Peace. Not high, not intermediate: none. Plan accordingly, because silence in a catalogue is not protection. Resistance is a property of the cultivar, not the group. Some classic ramblers are mildew-prone, while Knock Out is a shrub rose bred specifically for resistance, so you cannot infer anything about Peace from its being a hybrid tea.
The source names five diseases that affect roses in general: botrytis, blights, powdery mildew, leaf spots and anthracnose. Treat each as a live risk for Peace. Powdery mildew overwinters in dormant buds and on stems, not in leaf litter, so raking the bed does not end it. Good airflow and a sunny site do more than any amount of tidying.
The pests named are the Fuller rose beetle, Japanese beetle, rose chafer, rose thrips, southern red mite and two-spotted mite. Mites are arachnids, not insects, which matters if you reach for a product labeled for one and not the other. Read the label for the pest you actually have.
Growing it without the usual mistakes
The tomato question is whether a plant is determinate or indeterminate. Peace is neither, but it keeps making flowering shoots through the season instead of delivering one flush. The work is therefore steady, not seasonal: you deadhead, watch for disease and cut hard once, while dormant. For the date, go to the page for your state.
Choose a spot with full sun and clay or loam soil. The documented pH range runs from acid (below 6.0) to neutral (6.0-8.0). Iron chlorosis shows up on strongly alkaline soil, above about 7.5, so a yellowing plant in a limed bed is worth testing.
The mistake this plant’s timing invites is the late cut. Every deadheading cut pushes a new shoot, so cutting spent flowers into the cold months produces growth that cannot ripen. Stop the cuts as the season ends. A feeding schedule is not published here, so follow the label on whatever you use and avoid heavy late applications for the same reason.
Check the tag for how the plant was propagated. Hybrid teas are commonly budded onto a rootstock, while most landscape shrub roses sold today, Drift Rose: When to Plant the Tomatoes That Ripen All at Once among them, are own-root. Winter protection guards the union on a budded rose and the crown on an own-root one, and the right depth and date depend on your state.
When you do cut back dead wood, do not strip everything. Remove what is diseased or unsafe, and leave dead stems cut to 12-24 inches standing for stem-nesting native bees.
Common questions
Does Peace flower on old wood or new wood?
New wood. That is why it is cut back hard while dormant. The page for your state gives the timing.
Are rose thorns dangerous?
They are prickles, not true thorns. They grow from the outer skin of the stem, which is why they can be rubbed off. Gloves still matter, since they cut and can carry soil.
Is Peace resistant to disease?
The catalogue lists no resistance for it, so keep it in full sun with good airflow.
Is Peace grafted or own-root?
The tag will tell you. Hybrid teas are commonly budded onto a rootstock, though that is not true of every rose sold. On a budded plant, winter protection covers the union, and on an own-root plant it covers the crown.