Planting Lettuce Close: Spacing Is the Weeding
Eight to twelve inches between plants, twelve to eighteen inches between rows, full sun.
Aphids, Cabbage Worms and Flea Beetles on Kale — and the Cover That Does Two Jobs
A single sheet of lightweight fabric, laid over kale seedlings, does double duty: it holds off frost damage and it keeps flea beetles from shredding…
Loose or Split Sprouts: Two Faults Set at the Same Moment
Loose or split Brussels sprouts almost always trace back to one moment: nitrogen or water applied after the sprouts have already started forming along…
Starting Cabbage Seed: Six to Seven Weeks, and Out Before the Last Frost
Six to seven weeks. That’s the figure Utah State University Extension gives for growing cabbage transplants indoors to the size they need before they go…
Harvesting Celery One Petiole at a Time
The short version: you don’t harvest celery all at once. You pull the outer petioles as soon as they hit a foot or more in length, leaving the center to…
Cut, Don’t Twist — and Keep Eggplant Out of the Fridge
The Utah State University Extension answers this in two lines: cut the stem with a knife or pruning shears rather than twisting the fruit off, wear…
Cabbage Splitting: Lift the Head and Break Its Roots
Split cabbage heads come from too much water moving into a head that’s already full, and the fix isn’t complicated.
You Can Shear Swiss Chard to Two Inches — If You Spare One Point
Yes: Swiss chard can be sheared down to within 2 inches of the soil, and the plant will keep producing.
Buttoning in Cauliflower: Four Shocks That Stop a Plant Early
Buttoning in cauliflower comes down to four separate shocks, according to Utah State University Extension: dry soil, cold temperatures, low nitrogen, and…
Picking Brussels Sprouts From the Bottom Up, and Keeping Them for Months
Brussels sprouts ripen from the base of the stalk upward, so the harvest itself works bottom-up: pick the lowest, tightest sprouts first and keep…