Curing Garlic: The Weeks That Decide How Long It Keeps
Curing turns freshly pulled garlic bulbs into long-keepers by drying the wrappers and neck in shade with airflow, a process that takes several weeks.
When to Harvest Garlic: Reading the Leaves, Not the Calendar
Explains the leaf-color stage and simple test-dig check that tell you when garlic bulbs are actually ready to pull, before they split or rot underground.
Why Garlic Needs Cold: The Weeks That Decide Whether You Get Cloves
Garlic needs a sustained period of cold to divide into cloves, and without it the plant grows normally but produces one undivided bulb instead.
Garlic Scapes: When to Cut Them, and What It Does to the Bulb
Garlic scapes need cutting at the one-curl stage to push the plant’s energy back into the bulb instead of a flower stalk.
Garlic Varieties: Hardneck and Softneck Compared
If you’re standing in your garden right now turning a bulb over in your hand, the short answer is this: grow a hardneck if your winters bite hard and you want big, easy-to-peel cloves with real character, and grow a softneck if you want a braid on the wall and cloves that keep until next … Read more
Planting Garlic: How Deep, How Far Apart, and Which End Up
Planting garlic correctly means the right depth, spacing, and orientation, timed to the first hard frost rather than a fixed date.
Duganski Garlic: When to Plant the Purple Stripe Heads That Need a Real Winter
Duganski needs several weeks of real winter cold to divide into cloves, and this rundown shows which US and Canadian regions provide it and which fall short.
Hardneck or Softneck Garlic: Which One Survives Your Winter
Hardneck garlic needs cold to form cloves and stores only a few months, while softneck skips that requirement and stores far longer.
Growing Garlic in Alabama: Planting Dates, Varieties and Winter Cold
Alabama’s fall frost timing and winter chill determine which garlic varieties bulb properly, when to plant cloves, and how to protect them through winter.
Fusarium Basal Rot in Garlic: Why Bulbs Rot From the Plate Up
Garlic basal rot begins at the stem plate and cannot be cured once a bulb is infected, so identification and prevention matter more than treatment.